Thursday, February 4, 2010

Picture collection of the last days of 2009

Here's a collection of some moments from the past two months. Since moving to our new home in South Harlem we've been to Washington D.C., Philadelphia, Brooklyn and - Central Park, our precious park for Sunday walks! I'll introduce our moments in a cronological order and try to memorise some glimpses of how it REALLY was..;)

Brooklyn


Brooklyn is to us a neighborhood of industrial buildings changed into new fancy apartments and great places to organise a party as well as the area where the most interesting cultural things happen. We went there to the Halloween ball in October and after that we've been there to see Quartet (with L.'s favorite, Isabelle Huppert) in BAM, Brooklyn's Academy of Music, and just day before yesterday Shakespeare's As you like it, directed by Sam Mendes. It was a hilarious show, watched from the seats placed extremely high. I can't wait to go see the other show of the project, The Tempest.

But there are also events done on a very small budget. In the beginning of December we heard about this group called The Aunts. Someone told us they organise a soirée of dance performances - at somebody's place! We went to the address given in Timeout, our necks reaching far, so curious we were. First we noticed the building, once more of these old industrial buildings taken into new use:


Inside we discovered that there are no tickets sold: one must only come with something to give, like old clothes, books, drinks or food. So we went back to the street to find a store and get some beer to give.:)

Back inside, we saw a man dressed in silver clothes rolling on the floor and holding a can phone in his hand. I also got to speak with him, although the audibility was even worse than normarly in New York when you call someone while on the street. After the guy I saw two girls dressed in foil.


And a performance of voice.


But the funniest was a show given by a group of Frenches, pretending to be a group of robust men and frogs and film personalities... And doing their thing in a very nonchalant way!


I was really glad to see this place because it gave me for the first time the feeling that New York doesn't offer only expensive and touristic Broadway shows but it has a lot of creative people that are eager to show what they can and make it a celebration together. One just has to know where to search for this kind of events. And of course have long ears!

The summary of the year 2009 continues in the next posting.

E.

Monday, December 28, 2009

Becoming SoHa’ans


Well, it took us a while to write here. There is a lot of stuff that has happened – if only this could work as an excuse for us and not make it even worse that we haven’t written. Well.

Meanwhile the impressive golden-sunny New York’s autumn turned into a rainy winter with its frigid winds and gray lack of light. Nothing pleasing indeed. But if you are a bit patient it can still surprise you with a pretty day, from time to time. Even with a snow storm or lovely walks trough the fields of Central Park covered by purely white duvet.

Another important change has been that we moved to a new apartment; to a new area and I guess to a whole new ambiance of our life in NYC. When we finally decided that we do not want to stay in the overwhelming flat at the Upper East Side, the owner informed us that she wants to move back to her place, so our moving out became clear and determined. The question was where to go. So with a lot of suspicion, traumatic memories of previous flat huntings we started the game. The area of research was quite limited with the decision to move closer to the Columbia University and to the West Side Manhattan. Although the main reason was our limited budget (especially limited for Manhattan prices). The unique area affordable and suitable for us became Harlem/Morningside and we visited there a few flats. The beginning was of course stressful: questions about our security numbers (as foreigner “visitors” we don’t have them), strange meetings with real estate agents that never appear or who give misleading information and all the deal with the American taxes, tips, fees that are (almost) never included in the prices written down. But about two weeks later we discovered that to find a new flat is actually easier than to find a good place to print photos!

First we fell in love with the photos of this apartment and couldn’t stand to wait a week or so to see it, then during two days we couldn’t stop asking ourselves will the owners accept our application. Finally we started to move in on Thanksgiving Day. It is a brownstone town house from the nineties of the nineteenth century – from the beginning of the Harlem urbanization boom. One of these townhouses that you probably know from romantic comedies: four floors, three windows on each floor, walkup stairs directly from the sidewalk or through a tiny front yard a bit lower than the street level (our case) and obviously a plasterwork in milk chocolate color with decorative black iron cornice. The first two floors are occupied by owner’s family (cool, eco-enthusiastic couple with baby twins), on the next two floors there are small flats for rent, two on each. Really cozy and quiet (if not one of our neighbors – a “talkative” type) with a classy super tight and arduous staircase. We moved on the top floor, on the street side, windows facing north but with a view to a row of the same kind of townhouses as ours and above them a large skyscape cut by plane traffic to the LaGuardia airport. If not already enough Newyorkish, in addition we have here this kind of a daylight that I found essential for Manhattan – almost never direct sunlight but variously colored air over city roofs line and below it constant game of light reflection of windows’ mirrors, of shadows and its pale light done by colors and surfaces of walls, trees, billboards and so on. And when there is sunlight it’s just this kaleidoscopic light game, always impressing and surprising with its effect.

Of course as soon as we came here with the first bags we found the first downsides of our new home. It was empty, what gave a nice relief after the overcrowded place in Upper East - filled with Victorian roses, plates and pretty small tables of the owner. Here we have just a unique open space, a nice hardwood floor, one uncovered brick wall, fresh white painting, new but classical New York style bathroom (as in the film Annie Hall!), small kitchenette and the best of all – three big windows not covered with trellis or filled with an ugly box of air conditioner. But we also discovered that it was pretty chilly and that there is this old smell of animals and cigarettes and you really can do nothing about it. The nice looking old iron heater starts to go on only when the temperature in the owners apartment falls below 21C and usually it’s a bit warmer at theirs. In addition we were disappointed that this heater doesn’t work in the “European” way just by staying worm… naturally it must also make noise and split steam.

During the long weekend of Thanksgiving we succeeded to bring our stuff one trip after another. We collected quite a lot already at that time. As you can imagine there was a lot of fun and sweat, trips by city bus with our findings from the street (chairs and paintings) with our jasmine bush and broken suitcases. As we fulfilled the flat with our cardboards, papers and so on the emptiness of it became problematic. So there were of course trips to IKEA in Brooklyn and to Target in Bronx for some needful objects (like curtains, extra heater or lamps..) but after having spent a few days on the floor surrounded by the hills of stuff and a few nights spent on the air mattress we started a real, full time hunt on the Craigslist and mainly on the Manhattan streets for some suitable furniture. It’s great that you can find so easily nice stuff here, maybe the before Christmas time was also a good season for it, and finally we got all what we needed. The funniest was probably the adventure with the sofa-bed which we found by Craigslist. We picked it up from a nice American-Dutch couple, from thirtieth floor flat in a fancy building in the West Central Park area. First we got for free the huge plastic bags (we hoped to succeed to put the sofa’s mattress in it) from C-town (one of the cheapest supermarkets), then we got by metro to the sofa’s owners place. At the place, nicely chatting with the sofa’s owners we disassembled the sofa as much as it was possible. Fortunately it was possible to roll the mattress tightly enough to put it into the bags. We came down with an elevator and caught the cab. The frame was of course too big for a yellow taxi, so we left it there by the doormen’s room and drove home with “the essential part”. Then, when we got it upstairs, by frugality we just walked back for the rest. And with it we walked back home along the Central Park. Luckily it was a sunny day and even the walk with the frame was pleasant. I don’t need to tell you how happy we are now about our sofa, do I? But the furnishing is still in progress, it’s just no more full time job. The most recently found chair for example is stubbornly falling apart, so there is the question: try to fix it or.. look for a new one?

L.

Sunday, November 15, 2009

Fire island had more amazing sights than the blog could take...


Take off



We wanted to see the ocean already during the small "election day" break, but as a good worker/student I of course got ill during the break. The flew didn't last long, so we got to have that take off last weekend. We were supposed to wake up early on Saturday morning, but as we got two German guys to visit us, we didn't go until Sunday. Saturday night we spent in a bar in East Village, listening to the music from NuBlu jazz festival. There was even a drum player who had recorded with Miles Davis in the 70's... Oh well, that's another story.

But on Sunday morning we woke up, took the subway to LIRR (Long Island Rail Road) at Penn Station. By the train we ended up at the Bayshore station from where we walked a mile or so to the ferry that would take us to Fire Island. Yeii, we would see the waves! We also got a really sun shiny day. Because I was a bit afraid I would not stay healthy, I was dressed in a winter jacket (the so called Michelin jacket).

Oh boy, we forgot the noisy Manhattan streets as soon as the ferry took off. It was so refreshing to breath the ocean air! Of course I was also excited about all the furry passengers on the boat, as much eager to get on the beach as I was. There was e.g. Cleo the wheaten terrier. The rest of the passengers were quite white, upper middle or even higher class people that had/rented/visited the houses on the beach.


When the boat arrived, we walked on the Atlantic side of the beach. By crossing the island we passed many funny looking houses someone had constructed there. In the summer time the island is apparently crowded: families and young people that come in groups to party. On the shore the houses were really fancy - the architects have done their best to constuct those beach houses.


We just walked on the beach, enjoyed the sun and made a collection of shells. We also had a picnic there. Unfortunately the animals that I normally so much like caused us a little headache: as we were eating, suddenly a big golden retriever showed up. I saw it was looking at our sandwiches and told him: "NO!". So s/he decided to grab one really quickly and as doing so threw some sand on our lunch. As I ran after it, I heard the owner screaming "Oh I'm so sorry!"... Well, the dog looked like s/he has done it some times. I wonder who had let it do so.


As I'm writing this text now I can still remember the salty ocean air. Changing the scene once in a while does you good. It's also good to know that there is something more here than just the big city.

We try to find a new apartment here. Please cross your fingers so that you'll have a place to sleep in when you come visit us! ;)

Wednesday, November 11, 2009

All Souls’ Day experience





It was fabulous to experience the Halloween but the day after there was All Saints’ Day and I was about to visit the cemetery. And NYC surprised me with that once more. Finding a graveyard is not such an easy deal as you would think (you know, comparing with the European metropolises). At Manhattan there is almost none of them besides some small churchyards, and I was looking for something big, with famous habitants, nice sculptures and atmosphere (Pere Lachaise, Powązki, Hietaniemi..). There is of course something like that – the Greenwoods cemetery in Brooklyn which in nineteenth century was the most popular tourist attraction of the US. Even more visited than Niagara Falls, can you imagine!? Well, at the epoch. Because today the most fascinating thing about Greenwoods is how it came to be so forgotten and abandoned place.

First it was not easy to find that it exists, then how to get there. I must say that waking up after Halloween night was not painless. But when we finally did it and after one hour in the metro when we ended up in front of the cemetery gate it was already closed and before we found another one which should be open longer it got dimmer and of course it was also closed. Well we had about a one hour walk along the graveyard’s fence. Quite scenic walk after all: from one side the English garden style graveyard with its idealized views, from another the postindustrial area of railroads, magazines and tracks' parking going down to the Brooklyn harbor. And in addition the view to the Manhattan sky towers and harbor and Liberty Statue on the skyline. The next day was the All Souls’ Day and I was decided to come back. And it was worth of it.

The day was cool but sunny and in the sharp grip of littoral air all redness yellowness gold rosiness and dying greenness seemed just about to explode. The yard is huge, I spent there more than five hours and didn’t succeed to visit all parts of it. Situated on the hills of Brooklyn with surprising views to downtown made even stronger impression than Central Park. It’s not a grave city with strict lines of stones and narrow paths between. It is a park with artificial lakes and waterfalls, with grottos, monumental stairs, squares with fountains. And at the same time a pretty rich botanic garden with collection of old and rare trees bushes and so on. And the graves, well they are just scattered all around blending with the landscape, sometimes dominating it, marking, emphasizing its idealistic and symbolic meanings, another times simply lost and abandoned in the domain of woods. Therefore the depth impression of this amazing place was done by the coexistence of this beautiful idealized and artificial landscape, so strongly and with such a big effort done to comfort still alive visitors, with their absolute absence. During the time which I spent there I met only five or six persons walking around. In the middle of Brooklyn! After really looking for it I found maybe ten graves with marks of someone’s care and visits. And without any tourists, photographers, impressions’ seekers… I was really shocked and so exited. To find yourself as a discoverer in NYC and then keep it alive during several minutes, hours (!) it was something. Irony of all this situation, like a silent laughter of a death. Like in Poussin’s Arcadia that humorously lost or get rid of ignorant shepherds. And in this finally empty paradise of memory only the regular work of gardeners, of quite big group of gardeners that makes the emptiness of the garden just more visible.

As it probably was easy to foresee after the walks on the Styx side, at some point I arrived to the other shore. In the middle of charming English style garden with its Antic temples, obelisks, columns and marble cradles I found a strange looking, business center like building. Set in the mountainside, almost invisible with its glass and steely walls shows up only its roof pyramid. Inside several flours connected by comfortable stairs and elevators. Hardwood floor and soft carpets. In every corner stylish sofa. Gentile music comes from hidden speakers. The landscape comes in through glass walls. On the other ones there are marble and granitic plaques with names, dates and so on. The new cemetery looks like a reception in a good quality hotel. And when I sat down there, on one of the sofas and looked around I somehow felt as I really wait for a room.

What an All Souls’.

Monday, November 2, 2009

Halloween special








People started decorating their doorways already weeks before the last Saturday of October. It crossed our minds that in this neighborhood of ours it even might be that they pay someone to do the decorations for them – they looked so professionally done. And when the Halloween day came, we could see that not only the decorations of houses were well done but people had really put energy and time in decorating themselves. There were witches, cartoon characters, politicians, musicians, clowns, cats, vampires, small police- or firemen walking on the streets.

The exciting atmosphere of the day was visible all day but when we entered the metro to go to the Greenwich Village Halloween parade it really started to grow. Sitting in the metro, my Venice mask on (L was kind of a phantom of the opera), on the other side Captain Hook and an angel, on the left a vivid bee I couldn’t help sighing that this is something big, a happening that unites lots of the people in New York City and it made myself think that I live (and also take part) in their community.

When the fully blocked subway arrived at Spring Street station we scrambled out and started looking for the beginning of the parade. When we found it we had to wait for about an hour for the parade to start off. At first it was depressing that we couldn’t move: I was supposed to take pictures for my photography course and now there was just a big bunch of excited people standing close to each other. It also started raining cats and dogs and we were soaking wet by the time we left the parade. But before the parade started, I was obliged to take pictures of people from very close range. And we noticed that in fact those were the best pictures of the night. And how people liked to pose! It seemed they were all dressed up just for being seen, and of course the parade was for that.

When the parade finally started we felt comfortable of being free to move and see all the different costumes and pass by the different bands that were making the music for the parade. We saw dancing and incredibly well done costumes. But as the rain didn’t stop we walked quite quickly to the end of the parade. All in all, we still had a party to attend.

The party took place in Brooklyn and on those blocks there were several industrial buildings. Luckily someone had had an idea of turning those buildings into concert and party places. We had heard about this “Last Masquerade” party from a friend. Apparently someone else had also heard about it: when we arrived after having changed and dried clothes at home, the line for the entrance of the party was about 300 meters. But as we were really curious about it, we decided to stay.

Of course when we would have been the next ones to go in, we were told that there would be an hour’s door shut. “Too crowded inside” the doorman shouted. Well the building, although looking like a big building, had taken quite many people inside…

As we had heard that the party uses several buildings in the neighborhood, we walked some blocks to find the other locations. We found one of them and surprisingly we got in without even paying the 20 dollars entrance fee! It looked pretty artistic inside with the video projections and gold-painted branches of trees. On the roof there were live bands playing and one of them really got our legs shaking. I don’t know the name but here’s a picture of the singer.

We spent an hour at the party and then found our way to the metro. Metro travel was still interesting with all the tired Halloween characters, like Cruella deVille leaning on one of the Dalmatians…

Funnily, the next day when we started our trip to the cemetery, I was pleased to see that people were once more looking normal.

E